Talented. That's the first word on my mind when I am thinking about Marc Gulden. Open-minded, sensual, sensitive. He's like his designs. A little bit shy, artistic. His hands should be worth milion dollars or even more cause as far as I am concerned Mariah Horse Face Carey's legs are worth one milion dollars. Yeah, absolutely more. Welcome to his fairytale.
Fetish: I have to admit I was very surprised when I've found out you're a designer. I really do not remember who invited who to be friends on facebook but then a thought came: What a nice boy, oh, what a nice collection! So tell me how did it all start?
Marc Gulden: Huum.. If you refer to who clicked who, well I don't really remember. I guess you asked me for friend on facebook and then I sent you the link of my fan page, something like that!
Have you been to any fashion university, did the course or something?
I started fashion in Esmod Paris where I learnt mostly pattern making. I only stayed one year there. It was really expensive and unlike technical courses, creative ones were pretty dull. I then decided to join ESAA Duperré, a fashion public school in Paris where I studied for 3 years and eventually graduated.
I asked that question cause now everyone wants to be a designer and what's the worse - everyone can. They are buying cheap basic t-shirts at H&M, making a print or sewing them together with holes in and call it fashion. What's your opinion about it?
You know fashion business is not so different from other activities: you get obvious disasters as well as hidden gems... Now about creation process I kinda have a very open view as long as I like the collection at the end... Sometimes an unknown designer creating from his room makes a much more interesting work that an highly-educated one working for a big name...
Let's be brutally honest - I would never hear about you now but for facebook probably. Would you like to stay, let's call it, underground, less commercial, or you would like to rule the world?
Rule the world for sure...just kidding...Well I'm kinda down to earth so let's see where the next step takes me but I wouldn't mind growing a little bit.
Back to your collection - is it the first one?
Yep, first collection on the market. I sold some items before but I didn't invest as much as in this one.
Why the t-shirts?
The tee shirt is a special items to me. It is an incredible screen for image, and in my case, for illustration. It is sexy & affordable as well.
You know, there are millions, billions of different t-shirts - what is so special about the ones with your name on?
I bring a high level of quality, fabric is super combed, very comfortable, the cotton is very light. I used inkjet printing to reveal a nice range of details on illustrations. The piece is like a second skin, and once they touched it, most people want to have it!
I totally love the one with hands on the crotch. The graphic is very sexual and very sophisticated. It doesn't annoy with the whole sexual or vulgar side of it. Are you making those graphics by yourself?
Yes, I drew all the graphic designs. I used some paper & colored pencil and then reworked it on a computer. I love to make illustrations, it can be so expressive. It's funny because it is not the first time people tell me something sexual about the-hands-on-the-crotch tee. Actually it was a guy sitting, with holding hands. I thought his hands were beautiful, I took a picture and drew it later. I guess it was my unconscious driving me at that time ,)
What are your inspirations for the graphics?
I was on vacation in Italy's southern islands last year and I loved the place: the mineral color range of the islands, their barocco over-decorated churches, and their glamorous beach sceneries were an irresistible inspiration. I took hundreds of pictures that I started to draw once back in Paris. I had the project of launching a tee-shirt line for a long time, but the idea of creating a link between several illustrated pieces, like sketches on a travel notebook, was strong enough to help me make my decision.
The whole collection is very simple, I would even say basic. The draws are very precise. I would say that this is the collection for everyone because of it's versatility, but also because of it not everyone will wear it cause for me they are made for very sensitive people. Who's the main target of your designs?
I didn't target anyone in particular. I just designed what I wanted to. Still, you're right, most people with an artistic/fashion sensitivity like the collection, they think that the pieces and prints are refined and modern.
Are there any stories behind the graphics?
As I said before, there is a photo behind every graphic. I like the fact to stop the time and catch a moment, and then try to make something out of it, with several hours and a pencil.
The price is pretty high. I know that the clothes from designers are more expensive but you don't have a famous name yet...
Honestly I don't think that 50 euros is so high. If you pay 15 euros for a tee shirt it means that it's been produced in Bangladesh in 10.000 copies, with the lowest jersey quality of the market. People who like young designers are not obsessed with the name on the label, mostly they are willing for exclusivity and/or quality.
Any plans for a new collection? What will be in it?
I will keep the illustrated tee-shirt part, but I also want to bring new plain jersey tee shirts with more work on the shape. I also plan to bring shirts in the collection as well.. It will depend on how's current business going.
Hope all your dreams will come true. So good luck!
Thank you! Hope to talk to you for next season :>
For all information/shop please contact:
77, rue Lamarck / 75018 Paris
Photos: Marc's official site + archives